A long weekend on the South Downs

Having previously cycled in the New Forest and the Isle of Wight, this year Jon and I decided to walk along a small portion of the South Downs Way. It was also the perfect opportunity to take my new camera out for a spin.

Day 1

Originally planned as a walk from Amberley to Petersfield, then reduced to a shorter route from Midhurst, heavy wind and rain in the morning saw our plans change once more.

We decided to get the train from Littlehampton directly to Petersfield, changing at Barnham and Havant. After stocking up on snacks, we then walked to Uppark House and Gardens, near South Harting. By the time we’d arrived, the cafe had stopped serving food and we only had 30 minutes to quickly explore the grounds of this seemingly derelict house.

Having walked 10km, we retraced much of the journey back to the small village of Buriton. It was here that we had booked our first night’s stay, at The Nest Bar and Restaurant. We were impressed by the owner’s attention to detail, not least the bird theme running throughout the different rooms. The food served in the restaurant was just as appealing, and I retired to bed feeling very full having eaten a burger and apple and pear crumble.

A muddy track passes from one field to another, taken from an even muddier track in a field.

The brick and stone facade of Uppark House.

Day 2

With the weather behaving itself, and now located close to the South Downs Way, it seemed possible that we could complete the plan for our second day and reach Botley, located a few miles south of Winchester.

With an estimated walking time of 10 hours, by the time we reached Droxford 7 hours later, the choice was between completing the journey or getting a taxi to the hotel. The allure of some rest and relaxation was too great, and so we sped our way to Winchester.

For the second night we stayed at The Winchester Hotel and Spa. Jon described its appearance as “a posh Travelodge” while I suggested the general vibe could be summed up in three words: ‘Live, Laugh, Love’.

Route map. — Walking route across the South Downs for day 2.

People walking up the long, deceptively shallow incline of Butser Hill.

Rolling countryside around Old Winchester Hill.

Sunlight catches the edge of an old platform at what once was Brockbridge station near Droxford.

Jon standing on a bridge looking at the small stream passing underneath.

An old red K6 telephone kiosk repurposed as a location for swapping books.

Day 3

Before heading home in the afternoon, there was time to explore Winchester, a former Royal town and medieval capital of England.

Unlike Jon, I’d visited the city before, yet I hadn’t realised until this trip the extent to which Winchester Cathedral is a mix of different architectural styles. Remodelled on numerous occasions over the course of its 1000 year history, you can see older parts of the building typified by smaller round arches sitting alongside taller gothic arches that were added later.

Also new since my last visit, a museum called Kings & Scribes which includes a display of the highly decorated 12th-century Winchester Bible and gives access to the old library. With knowledgable guides on hand to answer questions, interactive exhibits and models that delve into the building’s construction, it adds to the overall experience of a timeless place that rewards patient study.

Three people in conversation inside Winchester Cathedral.

Although we hadn’t kept to the South Downs Way for the length of this trip (leaving this bucket-list item decidedly unticked) I enjoyed exploring this picturesque part of the world; practically on my door step yet an area I’ve largely ignored.

I loved using the new Fujifilm X-S20, too. I’m becoming a bit of camera snob as I rant on about the flatness, unnatural sharpness and general over-processing of images taken with a phone, but I’m glad I could capture this weekend in all of its technicolour glory.

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